Leather shell options subject to availability. Please check products for available shell options.
Victory Horsehide
Victory Horsehide Russet
Victory Horsehide Seal
Victory Horsehide Dark Seal
Victory Horsehide represents the pinnacle of Italian leather craftsmanship—an exceptional first-grade, full-grain Front Quarter Horsehide of the highest possible quality, and among the most exclusive and valuable leathers in the world.
It is entirely vegetable tanned using only natural extracts derived from chestnut, quebracho (a tree native to the Gran Chaco region of South America), mimosa, gambier, African sumac, *caesalpinia spinosa* (commonly known as “tara,” a small leguminous tree indigenous to Peru), and oak. This rich blend of botanical tannins forms the foundation of a leather that is both pure and enduring.
The transformation from raw hide to leather is achieved through a time-honored vegetable tanning process carried out slowly in large wooden vats. Unlike modern accelerated methods, this process relies on the gradual passage of time. As a result, the production of Victory Horsehide requires no less than six times longer than that of conventional leathers. Consequently, our tannery must significantly limit annual production, as each hide remains in the tanning drums for an extended period. This rarity is naturally reflected in its value, though neither the tannery nor we make any compromise where quality is concerned.
Every stage of production is executed entirely by hand, from beginning to end, without the use of modern industrial machinery. Victory Horsehide is, in its truest sense, one of the most natural leathers in existence. No synthetic chemicals are introduced at any stage, and even the dyes used are composed exclusively of natural ingredients.
Natural dyeing is an ancient craft, refined to its highest form during the Renaissance in Tuscany. This tradition has been preserved and passed down through generations, practiced today by only a select few master tanneries. Our partner tannery is the only one in Italy—and indeed in the world—to apply these historic techniques specifically to horsehide. As such, we can state with absolute confidence that nothing comparable to Victory Horsehide exists elsewhere.
The hides are immersed in large wooden barrels, where dyes derived from chestnut and quebracho extracts are introduced. Depending on the desired shade, these extracts may be sourced from the leaves, roots, fruit, trunk, or bark of the trees. Following this, the leathers undergo a natural fermentation process lasting approximately forty days. During this time, the botanical extracts penetrate deeply into the fibers, transforming the hides into a uniquely biologically dyed leather.
This method is singular in its ability to produce such natural hues, exceptional depth of color, and a richly expressive grain. The aroma of naturally dyed leather is equally distinctive—impossible to replicate through artificial means. The result is a material with a remarkable tactile quality, profound chromatic depth, and enhanced durability, including improved resistance to water.
Perhaps the most remarkable characteristic of Victory Horsehide lies in its evolution over time. Rather than deteriorating, it develops a refined and authentic patina—an ever-deepening interplay of color and undertone that bears witness to the integrity of both the leather and its dyeing process.
Each hide is inherently unique. Unlike surface-applied finishes, natural dyeing becomes fully integrated into the leather, permeating its structure rather than merely coating it. Produced exclusively for us and finished entirely by hand in custom-developed colors, no two skins will ever be identical. This individuality is not a flaw, but a defining element of its luxury.
As with all truly natural leathers, Victory Horsehide exhibits its own distinct character. Variations in grain, subtle surface markings, tonal highlights, and organic irregularities are hallmarks of authenticity.
Even within the same batch, hides may range from smooth to heavily grained, from softly wrinkled to richly textured, from matte to slightly lustrous. Color may vary across individual skins—or even within a single hide—appearing uniform in some areas and revealing complex undertones in others. This is the true nature of natural leather. With careful selection, we harmonize these variations to create garments of exceptional visual balance and beauty.
Victory Horsehide is without equal. Its name is not a statement of ambition, but a reflection of its unmatched standing. It surpasses all other hides in both character and longevity, developing with age in a manner that few materials can rival.
Jackets crafted from this leather possess an unmistakable presence—defined by depth, richness, and a level of refinement that is second to none.
Production timelines for Victory Horsehide are inherently unpredictable, typically requiring approximately six months. Yet such patience is rewarded in full.
Waiting is temporary.
Victory is forever.
Liberty Horsehide
Liberty Horsehide Russet
Liberty Horsehide Seal
Liberty Horsehide Dark Seal
Liberty Horsehide Black (teacore)
Developed in collaboration with the esteemed Italian tannery Conceria Victoria S.r.l.—a supplier to renowned luxury houses such as Gucci and Prada—Liberty Horsehide represents a landmark achievement in the faithful recreation of vintage horsehide.
Its development required an exceptional investment of time, expertise, and resources. At the outset, no tannery possessed a definitive reference point from which to replicate the precise characteristics of vintage leather. As such, an extensive process of experimentation was undertaken: numerous trials, countless samples, and rigorous evaluation over a period of nearly two years. We absorbed the full cost and complexity of this process, committed to a singular objective—authenticity without compromise.
Ultimately, through persistence and technical mastery, the tannery succeeded in unlocking the precise methodology required to reproduce vintage tanning. The result is Liberty Horsehide: a material that can be described, without exaggeration, as a true counterpart to the horsehide used in the most celebrated vintage leather jackets.
With its introduction, we effectively answered a long-standing demand among collectors and enthusiasts—those who sought a leather that not only resembled vintage originals in appearance, but also evolved in the same way over time. In this sense, Liberty Horsehide delivers exactly what was long awaited.
Liberty Horsehide is a premium full-grain, vegetable-tanned horsehide. It faithfully replicates the weight, thickness, color, texture, feel, and hand of WWII-era leathers. Its finish has been developed in strict accordance with period specifications, ensuring a level of historical accuracy rarely achieved.
A defining characteristic of Liberty Horsehide is its intentional aging behavior. The leather is specially processed so that its surface color will gradually wear and fade with use, allowing the lighter undertone beneath to emerge—revealing scratches, scuffs, and tonal variation exactly as seen on original vintage jackets. This is entirely deliberate and must not be misconstrued as a defect. On the contrary, it is a core feature of the leather’s authenticity.
We have even drawn from historical testimony: a WWII veteran reported that his A-2 jacket developed noticeable patina within approximately six months of light wear in the cockpit. Guided by such insights, we worked closely with the tannery to calibrate the tanning process so that Liberty Horsehide achieves a comparable evolution within a similar timeframe.
For those who seek absolute fidelity—both in appearance and performance—to vintage originals, Liberty Horsehide offers a level of precision that is without equal. It is ideally suited for both TYPE A-2 reproductions and refined civilian styles, where authenticity is paramount.
Shinki Horsehide
Shinki Horsehide Medium Brown
Shinki Horsehide Seal Brown
Shinki Horsehide Black (teacore)
Shinki horsehide needs no introduction. It is a high quality Japanese horsehide produced by Shinki Hikaku. Shinki Hikaku tannery established in 1951 in Himeji, Hyogo Prefecture in Japan is a small relatively unknown tannery who specialize in horsehide. They purchase their horsehides from Poland, France, and other worldwide locations. They select some of the finest grades of hides and tan them using either with vegetable, chrome or combination tan methods. Their vegetable tanned leathers can be distinguished from the characteristic leather smell associated with the vegetable tannins found in their recipe. Shinki Hikaku is also one of the few cordovan producers left in the world and their horse leathers are used for bags, leather accessories, footwear and garments. Shinki horsehide for jackets is available in pigment (opaque) finish as well as in semi-aniline finish (which is a mixture of pigment and aniline finish). Shinki leathers can be grainy or smooth (both are of the same quality) and we cannot guarantee selection of either one for your jacket as it will always be subject to availability. Japanese vintage jacket reproduction makers conveniently buy the horsehide they use from Shinki Hikaku who is their local tannery and with their exceptional creations have helped Shinki horsehide achieve the status and popularity it enjoys today. Lately they also brilliantly marketed the term ‘teacore’ which is nothing else than the base of the leather being dyed in a lighter shade than the top coating so when the finish scratches or fades with age a lighter color shows through; an effect which accentuates the aged appearance of the jacket. North American vintage reproduction jacket makers have also jumped on the same wagon of famed horsehide but they did not succeed to offer competitive prices because of the high import costs of Japan origin leather. We chose Shinki horsehide finished in pigment because it has a nice texture with pronounced grain and uniform color, but also so that we can be the only manufacturer who can offer Shinki horsehide jackets to European Union based customers relieving them from the stress and costs associated with shipping, import duties, VAT and customs clearance fees connected with purchasing expensive jackets from the United States, Canada and Japan.
Badalassi Cowhide
Cowhide Badalassi Natural
Cowhide Badalassi Russet
Cowhide Badalassi Seal
Badalassi Carlo tannery has an over-40-year long specialization in vegetable-tanning, in the production of “vacchetta” leather. Its collection includes a wide range of high quality articles with sophisticated and exclusive handmade finishings.
Badalassi cowhide is a leather option that has endured the test of time in the Japanese market. Several renowned Japanese leather jacket manufacturers use it and it has proved to be very popular. Jackets made with it are often valued more than their horsehide counterparts.
Badalassi cowhide is a high quality Full-grain vegetable tanned with aniline finish. In fact, its aniline finish is one of the best we have ever seen. It gives a deep, rich and uniform color like no other that will make any garment look absolutely great. We would choose Badalassi anytime, anywhere.
We are one of the few vintage leather jacket reproduction makers in the Western hemisphere that use Badalassi leather.
Badalassi have a large number of beautiful ready-made colors which can be used in a variety of projects. At present we use their russet and seal color only but we may expand the colors available depending on demand.
Buy jackets with this leather if what you are looking for is toughness, durability and luxurious appearance.
Maltese Goatskin
Goatskin Maltese Seal
Sourced from robust Maltese goats, this leather is defined by its pronounced grain and resilient structure. Tanned in Italy to historical military specifications, it delivers a balance of strength, flexibility, and ease of wear.
Its character is authentic, its performance reliable, and its appearance unmistakably true to heritage originals.
Goatskin
Goatskin Seal
A refined, medium-weight leather selected for its versatility and comfort. Finished in a classic seal tone with a protective pigment layer, it offers durability and water resistance while maintaining a supple, tactile feel.
Designed for everyday wear, it combines practicality with understated elegance.
Victory Capeskin
Capeskin Victory Russet
Capeskin Victory Seal
Capeskin is a light flexible leather made from sheepskins with the natural grain retained, originally made from the skin of sheep from the Cape of Good Hope. The story goes that those sheep were transported there from New Zealand.
Victory Capeskin is a rare and distinguished leather, produced by a specialist European tannery with exceptional expertise.
Lightweight, supple, and finished in aniline, it reveals a pronounced grain and characteristic ribbed texture that lend it an unmistakable identity. Its softness and natural drape provide unparalleled comfort, while its visual character evokes the rugged elegance of early aviators.
It is, quite simply, the definitive expression of authentic capeskin.
Striated Lambskin
Lambskin Striated Authentic Brown
Our Striated Lambskin is imported from New Zealand. It is the best quality striated leather money can buy. It displays very rich grain and the right amount of “striations” to give an authentic and accurate look. It has a rugged vintage appearance right out of the box.
It doesn’t need “hot water treatment” it doesn’t need “training”, it doesn’t need to “break in”, it doesn’t need to be “shrunken”, it doesn’t need to be “crumbled”, it doesn’t need to be “pre-distressed”, it doesn’t need “artificial aging”, by neither sanding, alcohol, nor acetone. It doesn’t need anything. And the reason it doesn’t need anything is because it is the right leather you were looking for. Jackets made with this leather will give you the right “vibe” the moment you put them on. It has the right thickness, it drapes, moves and wrinkles just like the original hero jacket.
Grainy Lambskin
Lambskin Grainy Authentic Brown
A refined garment-grade lambskin, chrome tanned and finished in semi-aniline for a soft, luxurious hand.
Supple and elegant, it is designed for comfort and sophistication rather than rugged use. Its smooth texture and refined appearance make it ideal for garments that prioritize elegance and ease.
Mouton Fur
Mouton Fur Golden
Mouton Fur Brown
The mouton fur we offer is produced from sheared sheepskin of aeronautical-clothing grade. The skins with wool attached are properly and fully tanned by chrome tannage method as specified by the military.
The shade of the fur used on USN jacket was originally brown which after prolonged exposure to sun faded to a golden color. We offer both color variations.